The Somme

Ever since I was a boy, "the Somme" has been a euphemism for slaughter. As one small part of the front of trenches that stretched from Alsace-Loraine to Belgium during World War I, "the Somme" was that active stalemate of armies that ground men, equipment and the very earth into pulp. Over 1 million soldiers of all nations were killed or wounded in this particular part of the first global war.  The scale of the killing represented the victory of industry over humanity, a theme that carried on through the 20th Century and which shows no sign of waning in the 21st. No wonder the countryside is dotted with graveyard after monument after graveyard; the land itself continues to give up its dead even a century later. "Lest We Forget" is as much a call to remember the terrible cost of arrogant ambition as it is a reminder to honour the dead.

Consequently, it has been a revelation to find that today, "the Somme" is a gentle river running through a verdant and peaceful countryside! Birds sing, vegetables thrive, wheat and corn are abundant; cattle and sheep graze placidly, even in pastures still pocked with shell holes. The town of Albert, once destroyed in that paroxysm of violence, today holds its Saturday market in the town square, its cathedral fully restored. "The Somme" today is testament to human resilience.

The juxtaposition of these two is more than I can fathom. I am only happy to witness that "Peace" has the final word; it is the norm. May it endure forever.

Amiens--A Pleasant Surprise

After a teary goodbye at the train station in Bonn, we bid Celine and Petra "auf wiedersehen" and boarded our train to begin our journey to Amiens. This destination was chosen due to its proximity to Paris and a number of WWI memorial sites that Murray wants to visit. Other than the WWI tour, we had very little idea about what we might do in Amiens as we planned to use it as a home base while we explored the surrounding area. We arrived at our hotel, tired and hungry, after riding 4 trains over 6 and 1/2 hours. Showered and changed, we set out to find some dinner and explore the city centre. Amiens is absolutely charming! A block down the street is La Cathedral Notre Dame d'Amiens, "one of the most remarkable masterpieces of High Gothic architecture from the 13th century". A few blocks away, are the canals of Amiens, "Venice of the North", and throughout the city centre there are pedestrian-only avenues filled with outdoor cafés and interesting shops.
We spent most of the morning at the Cathedral, climbing the towers, walking the labyrinth, and marvelling at the details within the sanctuary. After a fantastic dinner (for me it was a pot of mussels and frites) we went back to watch the cathedral light up at night. It was a fantastic presentation using colour, light and sound to highlight the beauty and amazing details of this cathedral.
It's good to be back in France, sampling French cuisine, speaking the language, and enjoying la vie Français. And, of course, there's the wine! C'est magnifique!

Relaxing on the Rhine

After an epic journey north, we now find ourselves in the bucolic city of Bonn. Former capital of West Germany, superseded by Berlin after the fall of The Wall, it nonetheless retains the imprint of  its diplomatic importance. Centres of culture abound, from churches to museums to baseball diamonds(!), this latter a legacy of the longstanding American presence after the Second World War. This is the birthplace of Ludwig Van Beethoven, whose house we will visit tomorrow. With the hot, muggy summer weather, the agricultural parkland surrounding the city and the Rhine River a prominent natural feature, this city bears a striking resemblance to Winnipeg of all places. Bratwurst and beer, herring with potatoes, Riesling and cheese, lovely hosts and friendly people; it's great to be back in the North.