The Last Post

We're home! After 24 hours of non-stop travel from Paris through Montreal, sister Gwen met us in Vancouver and put us up for the night. In the morning, brother Mirçea delivered us into the hands of BC Ferries who (dare I say this publicly?) run one of the best ferry services in the world. Our arrival in Swartz Bay was greeted by Naomi and Sam, who chauffeured us safely home. And what a home! After weeks of living out of our packs in rooms large and small, the luxury and spaciousness of what we are accustomed to here was startling. And how wonderful to return to a damp, cool West coast climate! Over the past 2 days, as we've wrestled with jet lag and moved back into our common routines, the experience of our trip has at times seemed like a fading dream. What will not fade is the gratitude and affection we carry for all those people we met and enjoyed on the journey nor the memory of the many locales and communities we fell in love with. It was the trip of a life time ... but now, let the laundry begin!

The City of Lights

Paris. . . synonymous with romance, the Eiffel Tower, l'Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre. It is the gateway and the exit point of our 2 month European adventure. We had heard so much from others, some positive, much negative-- crowded, dirty, expensive. We're glad we stayed open to its possibilities and that we saved time to enjoy it at the end of our journey. Our time in this beautiful city has been a continuation of our entire European experience.
Our first delight was arriving at our hotel, booked and paid for through Hotwire, to find a first class room steps away from the Seine, the Metro and a fantastic view of La Tour Eiffel. We have visited all the major sights and found them to be crowded with tourists, just like us, wanting to experience the Paris they've always dreamed of. We've also walked the side streets, dined in quiet bistros, and experienced exchanges with polite Parisians.
We're ready to return home. We miss our friends and family, our neighbourhood, and the smell of BC air. We're tired of wearing the same clothes for 2 months and sleeping in a different bed every few days. And yet the magic of this time will remain in our hearts and minds forever.
This will be our last post from Europe but we'll finish up with a final post once we're back home. Thanks for joining us on our adventure. A votre santé!
Susan

The Somme

Ever since I was a boy, "the Somme" has been a euphemism for slaughter. As one small part of the front of trenches that stretched from Alsace-Loraine to Belgium during World War I, "the Somme" was that active stalemate of armies that ground men, equipment and the very earth into pulp. Over 1 million soldiers of all nations were killed or wounded in this particular part of the first global war.  The scale of the killing represented the victory of industry over humanity, a theme that carried on through the 20th Century and which shows no sign of waning in the 21st. No wonder the countryside is dotted with graveyard after monument after graveyard; the land itself continues to give up its dead even a century later. "Lest We Forget" is as much a call to remember the terrible cost of arrogant ambition as it is a reminder to honour the dead.

Consequently, it has been a revelation to find that today, "the Somme" is a gentle river running through a verdant and peaceful countryside! Birds sing, vegetables thrive, wheat and corn are abundant; cattle and sheep graze placidly, even in pastures still pocked with shell holes. The town of Albert, once destroyed in that paroxysm of violence, today holds its Saturday market in the town square, its cathedral fully restored. "The Somme" today is testament to human resilience.

The juxtaposition of these two is more than I can fathom. I am only happy to witness that "Peace" has the final word; it is the norm. May it endure forever.

Amiens--A Pleasant Surprise

After a teary goodbye at the train station in Bonn, we bid Celine and Petra "auf wiedersehen" and boarded our train to begin our journey to Amiens. This destination was chosen due to its proximity to Paris and a number of WWI memorial sites that Murray wants to visit. Other than the WWI tour, we had very little idea about what we might do in Amiens as we planned to use it as a home base while we explored the surrounding area. We arrived at our hotel, tired and hungry, after riding 4 trains over 6 and 1/2 hours. Showered and changed, we set out to find some dinner and explore the city centre. Amiens is absolutely charming! A block down the street is La Cathedral Notre Dame d'Amiens, "one of the most remarkable masterpieces of High Gothic architecture from the 13th century". A few blocks away, are the canals of Amiens, "Venice of the North", and throughout the city centre there are pedestrian-only avenues filled with outdoor cafés and interesting shops.
We spent most of the morning at the Cathedral, climbing the towers, walking the labyrinth, and marvelling at the details within the sanctuary. After a fantastic dinner (for me it was a pot of mussels and frites) we went back to watch the cathedral light up at night. It was a fantastic presentation using colour, light and sound to highlight the beauty and amazing details of this cathedral.
It's good to be back in France, sampling French cuisine, speaking the language, and enjoying la vie Français. And, of course, there's the wine! C'est magnifique!

Relaxing on the Rhine

After an epic journey north, we now find ourselves in the bucolic city of Bonn. Former capital of West Germany, superseded by Berlin after the fall of The Wall, it nonetheless retains the imprint of  its diplomatic importance. Centres of culture abound, from churches to museums to baseball diamonds(!), this latter a legacy of the longstanding American presence after the Second World War. This is the birthplace of Ludwig Van Beethoven, whose house we will visit tomorrow. With the hot, muggy summer weather, the agricultural parkland surrounding the city and the Rhine River a prominent natural feature, this city bears a striking resemblance to Winnipeg of all places. Bratwurst and beer, herring with potatoes, Riesling and cheese, lovely hosts and friendly people; it's great to be back in the North.

A Special Meal

This is our last day in Greece. After 3 weeks of travel through the Peloponnesse, Crete, Santorini and the Southern Islands, we have come at last to Athens, capital of this troubled modern state, original home to the ideals of the "demos", the common people (who today tried to march on the Greek Parliament to voice their protest at the presence of the German Finance minister and were thwarted in the attempt). In our time here, we have come to love the land, the sea, the people and the food(!), so what better way to mark this end than with a special meal at the foot of a sacred site. Our gratitude goes out to the people of the community at Sylvan United, whose generosity provided us with the means to enjoy this fine dinner. But for now, farewell to Hellas. We shall return!